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‘I’ve got herbs in my pillow!’

27th June 2011, by Rob Rees

Hochkönig slopes [(c) Hochkönig Tourism]

Austria’s Hochkönig valley is less than an hour from Salzburg, yet still relatively unexplored by British visitors. As well as a fairly extensive ski area, there are small unspoiled villages, uncrowded pistes, new and improving lift system – all at appreciably lower prices than similar-sized big-name resorts.

Rob Rees reports back on a stay in Dienten last season, where he slumbered on herbal pillows in one of the area’s top hotels [edited by WTSS for the web].

Herbal pillows are supposed to offer all sorts of healthy benefits and the Austrians are big believers in these alternative therapies. The Übergossene Alm on the pass just above above Dienten, and mid way between Mühlbach and Maria Alm, has a ‘Cushion Menu’ (Kistenmenu) – pillows ranging from lavender to oats, millet to pine. As a poor altitude sleeper myself, they certainly did the trick.

The Übergossene Alm (meaning “the flooded meadow”) is at the foot of the Hochkönig, instead of on the summit as ancient folklore refers. And it’s a little more relaxing than history suggests.

The 4-star hotel has six types of steam room and sauna, three chill-out areas and as much herbal tea and fresh fruit as you can consume.

You can pamper yourself with the unusual ‘house special’ – the two-hour Alpienne Sport Vital treatment – a foot-bath, a honey and oil whirlpool, a full body massage with Marmot oil and a deep sleep on a bed of fresh hay.

The hotel is owned and run by two generations of the Burgschwaiger family and feels very much family-oriented. The Alm has its own ski instructor too, called ‘Lucki’!

And the skiing? There’s a 50m amble across the hotel’s reception to the Dachegg six-seat chairlift up to the centre of the area. The local slopes aren’t too difficult and we skied around on wide leisurely runs, often in trees. Turn right towards Hinterthal and Maria Alm, or left for the long cruisy reds of Mühlbach’s Schneeberg peak.

The 150km of slopes offer enough terrain to keep even the keenest skier happy for a week. Despite 2011’s weather difficulties, there has been lots of investment in snowmaking. But nearby Hinterthal has a good snow record anyway.

Dienten, in the middle of the Hochkönig valley, is a tranquil hideaway and proved the perfect antidote to escape fellow Brits.

Dienten is also the training ground of Marlies Schild, the Turin 2006 double Olympic women’s medallist.

The British and Austrian ski teams often use the steep Hinterreit slope above Maria Alm too. Olympian Alain Baxter honed his slalom skills here in 2001/02 before his ‘bittersweet’ Salt Lake City bronze medal win.

One thing we did notice was that the locals seemed to be enjoying a quick friendly ‘Pfiff’ of Pils nowadays, as smoking bans are becoming more commonplace (it is the choice of the bar owner still). It’s an obscure Austrian beer measurement of 200ml or a third of a pint in a true poseur’s glass – not the alpha male stuff you normally see down in the nearby Tirol, but it is a sociable drink nonetheless.

And it all makes for a lively enough après-ski scene. There are lots of atmospheric huts too, from rustic farmhouses like the Thoraualm above Hintermoos to big log cabins like the Baermooshütte.

If you’re keen to experience a quieter, all-round winter holiday for the family that won’t break the bank, try Hochkönig. And there’s one of Austria’s top 15 spa hotels waiting – complete with five types of herbal pillow to try.

The herbal five:

Millet pillow: millet with a combination of herbs, hops, lemon balm, lavender and small amount of valerian. The very smooth, round millet husks shape to the individual contours of your head, neck and shoulders giving comfort and support; good for relaxation, sleep, anxiety and stress.

Spelt pillow: the massaging properties created by the spelt are good for stiff necks, headaches and tension. The spelt husks offer support and retain warmth while allowing air to circulate freely.

Sheep wool and spelt pillow: the sheep wool absorbs breath without getting damp; good for migraine, sleeping disorders, back pain and rheumatism.

Buckwheat and vine leaves pillow: good for your blood circulation as well as tension, headache or stiff neck. The buckwheat acts as a heat reservoir and forms to the hollow of your neck, placing your head level with your spine, promoting ideal posture.

Energy pillow: the super combination of spelt, buckwheat, millet, oat and herbs re-energises and refreshes. Not possible to even begin to explain how it works!

Facts:

Rob Rees’s trip was arranged through the Dienten & Mühlbach Tourist office. He stayed at the 4-star Übergossene Alm – prices for a double room start at 130 euros per person / per day and include breakfast; midday snack with soft drinks; afternoon tea, coffee & cakes; 5 course dinner. The hotel has family rooms too, with cheaper rates for children.

Getting there:

Salzburg to Dienten is approximately 1hr15 drive.
Fly to Salzburg: Easyjet will be operating a new flight from Luton this winter. Air Berlin and BA from London Gatwick.
Trains: via Brussels / Munich to Zell-am-See or Saalfelden, for example.

Links:

http://www.hochkoenig.at/en

www.uebergossenealm.at

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