Where to Ski And Snowboard -

Thin snow cover but good piste skiing and friendly people in the Pyrenees

21st January 2012, by Dave Watts

Dave (right) and his guide Jean-Michel enjoy a mid-morning snack at L'Etape du Berger mountain restaurant

This week I slotted in a quick trip to the Pyrenees, skiing the two biggest resorts in a day each; both have around 100km of pistes. Unlike my last trip where it had snowed non-stop in Austria, the weather here was blue skies and wall to wall sunshine – but cold temperatures. The last snow had been early January so snow cover was thin, most black and many of the steeper red runs were closed and off-piste wasn’t good. Nevertheless, it was a very enjoyable couple of days, not least due to the friendliness of the locals, the remarkably low prices (plat du jour €9, bottle of wine €10, 6-day lift pass €175), the spectacular scenery and the very French atmosphere (with little English spoken and a big Spanish influence as it’s just over the border and Spaniards pour over in high season and at weekends because it’s cheaper here than in Spanish ski resorts).

First stop was St-Lary-Soulan where I checked in to the 4-star Mercure hotel that is linked directly by underground passage to the resort’s thermal spa, which has all sorts of treatments, a thermal treatment pool plus a fabulous spa area built to resemble a canyon with a swimming pool with nooks and crannies, a sauna and steam room and hot tub. That was a relaxing start before skiing the area the next day – the atmospheric valley village with its narrow main street lined with bars, restaurants and shops is a gondola or cable car ride away from the slopes at St-Lary 1700 (aka Pla d’Adet) where you can stay in purpose-built apartments. The slopes are mainly gentle and suit beginners, early intermediates and families best – though in good snow conditions, there’s some decent off-piste too. And the ski area splits interestingly into different sectors which give you a real sense of travelling around.

After skiing I moved on to the traditional spa town of Barèges, which is basically one narrow street lined by ancient buildings and set in a narrow wooded valley. I checked in to a beautifully renovated 300 year-old house, called Les Cailloux and run as a catered chalet. The owners Rob and Emma Mason are also in the final stages of renovating a hotel at the top end of town which is due to open on 11 February as the 3-star Hotel du Tourmalet and is named after the Grand-Tourmalet ski area that Barèges shares with purpose-built La Mongie in the next valley.

I explored the ski area the next day with Rob and Jean Michel Aguirre, who is now in charge of communications for the ski area and for ten years was head of piste security there. Before that he won 40 caps for France as full back in their national rugby team. He gave us a great tour of the mountain which has wooded slopes above Barèges and much more extensive and varied open bowls and slopes on the La Mongie side. The slopes here are generally more challenging than St Lary’s and suit all standards of intermediates well. And there is very extensive off-piste for all standards when snow conditions are good. These include one run where you climb up a narrow gulley and through a hole in the rocks to emerge the other side at the top of a deserted and gentle bowl. They also include a wonderful looking run down from the area’s high point of the Pic du Midi at 2877m where there is one of the world’s leading observatories and where you can stay the night in comfortable (but not en-suite) rooms and star gaze. The only routes down are off-piste and a guide is advised (though they will let you loose on your own if you sign a US-style waiver) – otherwise you catch the cable car down to the mid-station.

Food and drink is certainly a highlight of the area and I had delicious duck confit a couple of times. The Grand-Tourmalet area has some fine mountain restaurants too, including the rustic Chez Louisette above Barèges and the tiny wood panelled L’Etape du Berger above La Mongie, where most of the food you eat is produced on owner Eric Abadie’s own local farm.

For more on St-Lary, Grand-Tourmalet and nearby ski areas see www.tourisme-hautes-pyrenees.com

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