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White again in Serre Chevalier

15th March 2011, by Chris Gill

Some colour on Le Monêtier on Tuesday

As I write this blog, fairly heavy snow is falling on Serre Chevalier’s upper mountains. I can vouch for that, as we have just returned from a piste basher tour of the slopes this evening. And magical it was too, standing atop the Grand Serre after the lifts had closed in ankle-deep powder, big fat snowflakes falling softly and silently. We didn’t get the romantic sunset experience, but in a way this was much better: winter is back.

The pistes will be super above mid-station tomorrow, as they have been for my two days in resort this week. Actually, I had almost forgotten what winter was like, especially skiing in flat light and whiteout conditions. But we have had the best powder days since December. Fab. And Serre Chevalier has plenty of trees to retreat to for piste definition.

We arrived in resort on Monday, staying at the Hotel Thabor in Villeneuve. Breaking with tradition on a late morning arrival, though, we didn’t rush to get on the skis. Instead, we enjoyed a leisurely lunch in Villeneuve village and a leisurely thermal spa – very pleasant and definitely not to be missed if visiting the resort. But the snow beckoned.

We spent Tuesday cruising around Villeneuve and Le Monêtier. It is some years since I last visited the area, but remembered the the slopes quite well – especially the chilly ascent to Pic de L’Yret. Visibility was poor, so we couldn’t get the full benefit of the new snow; but enjoyed a good run down anyway.

The new lift linking Villeneuve to Le Monêtier is an excellent addition. We were up at the Col de la Cucumelle in no time, and throughly enjoyed a good run back down the valley red piste. Plenty of folk were tracking out the off-piste here, although cover is a little thin in places. Some of the lower tree runs are now hard work too; mashed potatoes best describes them – despite the snow high up, it’s still mild.

Lunch was at one of our Editors’ Choice restaurants: the Chalet Hotel Serre Ratier, followed by a few more runs before scooting off to the Hotel Alliey in Le Monêtier for a spa, massage and dinner. The proprietor also invited us to one of his regular guest wine tasting sessions. And jolly fun it was too, although I can’t say I really know my grapes and processes that well. Umm, I taste …

What’s that cheeky grin for?

Wednesday dawned grey and damp too, but with light snow showers on the mountain. We met up with our guide Guillaume for a ski and culture day, sampling the resort’s ‘Neiges de Culture’ and great runs in the fresh snow, first down to Briançon on the long red run, then back towards Chantemerle area for lunch. There are various interactive and educational stations dotted along the way. Basically, it is designed for families to entertain the kids; but anyone can enjoy them. A stop at the Indian village was a warming retreat from the snow showers.

Lunch was at another of our Eds’ Choice restaurants, Le Bivouac de la Casse. We had a splendid plat du jour of veal cannelloni with cheese and basil encrusted topping, for 23 euros. Pricey but extremely good. We managed a few more runs in worsening conditions (heavier snow and fog up top, big slush moguls low down), before heading out on our piste basher tour.

The powder, albeit a bit wet, is accumulating nicely. Bliss – but sadly I head home tomorrow on one of the best powder days for a while. Grrrr ….

The slopes on Wednesday morning – before the snow set in.

Our visit to Serre Chevalier was arranged by Erna Low, specialists in tailor-made French breaks, and Jackie Biggin Media. We stayed at the Thabor hotel in Villeneuve.

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