Where to Ski And Snowboard -

Arc 1950: encouragingly different

19th August 2009, by Chris Gill

Arc 1950 [W King]

Introduction

You can’t see the village from the top of the Marmottes blue run: it’s tucked into the side of the mountain. As you cruise closer, the pleasant cluster of timber and stone residences appears. Nip down a narrow but gentle side-run and you enter the pleasant and attractive pedestrian centre. In fact, you can ski to or from any building if you want - as resort Director General, Jean-Marc Silva, was keen to demonstrate with an extended glide straight through the doors of the resort office! This is Arc 1950: the next generation in purpose-built resorts.
Arc 1950 offers a compelling blend of modern skiing with traditional Alpine charm and North American service; quite different from the standard image of high French resorts. Everything is designed to be easy and comfortable, from the moment you arrive to accessing some of Les Arcs most challenging terrain. With construction complete and the inauguration party over, I went to see if the new kid on the Les Arcs’ block could show me a good time on- and off-the slopes.

Back to base: the Village
Wandering through the centre there was a familiar whiff of freshly baked waffles and crepes, irresistible after a long afternoon’s drive from Geneva. Quite a crowd had gathered around a fire pit, lit for toasting marshmallows and warming chilly hands. It all felt established, relaxed and typically French. Good start.
Late afternoon is when Arc 1950 is most animated. Regular events are laid on to create a sociable atmosphere for both guests and apartment owners; centrally focussed and welcoming. It isn’t to everyone’s taste; some think it ‘stage-managed’ or ‘themed’ - in a way, it is - but this seems to involve developing a sense of community that other purpose-built resorts rarely have. The fashion shows are a bit unusual; it’s good family fun though and I’m told that the shopkeepers join in too. You can always head to a bar if you prefer a quiet drink, kick back in one of the pools or saunas, or try other activities such as night-skiing and ski-joering.
Enclosing the central area are the eight residences that complete the neat, Canadian-designed village. All offer hotel-style living in spacious, self-catering apartments. I stayed at the very comfortable Manoir Savoir which, along with the Le Chalet des Lys, opened in 2007. Like their neighbours, each is very well equipped with the latest in 4-star luxuries. Step outside and you’re just a few strides from an impressive selection of restaurants, with menus to suit most tastes and pockets.

Wine n’ dine in style
My first meal was certainly different. The new Table des Lys is definitely gourmet - you won’t find your average tartiflette there, and lilac whipped potato is somewhat unusual. The service and food couldn’t be faulted, but this is “special occasion” dining rather than a regular choice and I was happier with a beer and burrito at Los Chicanos - most guests seemed to agree: the place was full.
Lots of visitors choose the village for lunch too - on a snowy day, the sheltered centre is a welcome retreat. You can grab a quick snack or linger over something more substantial. I enjoyed pasta and salad at Il Valentino’s: a good-value Italian, popular with families.
Nightlife is subdued and sophisticated. If you are used to wild après-ski partying, Arc 1950 is likely to disappoint. There is a nightclub and the new bar, O’Chaud, has occasional live music; but overall it lacks that ski resort sparkle and is a bit too reserved.
But then, you come to Les Arcs for the skiing…

Making Arcs: on the mountain
Arc 1950 is well-placed for the ski domain’s vast and varied slopes. Two fast lifts take you out and the lovely Marmottes blue piste brings you back. No long walks or ski buses are required. Glide through the centre, past the kids’ club and you are straight on the piste. There may not be any easy greens, but there are lots of lovely long blues for novices to progress to.
Getting to the other Arc developments, and to the Paradiski connection, is not as time-consuming as it looks either: one fast lift and one blue run are all you need to travel to Peisey-Vallandry. We tried that and were sipping hot chocolates at the rustic La Cordée hut (above Vallandry) less than an hour later - after a few diversions along the way to enjoy fresh snow among the trees. It’s much quicker if you stick to the blue that traverses the mountain.
Back at the village and the Aiguille Rouge (3226m) fills the view above the clock tower. It is the highest point in Les Arcs and below is where you will find some of the toughest skiing, as well as fabulous intermediate terrain. I also found it to be a quieter sector than Arc 1800.
The highlight came on my last morning, with a two hour round trip to Villaroger, including a coffee stop at the lovely Chalet du Solliet mid-way. Despite having one of the longest runs in the Alps, this sector is quiet because of its location at one end of the ski area, and its slow chairs to return. From Arc 1950, it was just two lifts away for a perfect morning’s blast down the undulating red, with its interesting pitches and protective trees hiding untracked powder that Jean-Marc insisted I try. I’m glad that I did - under blue skies, fresh snowfall and first tracks, it couldn’t be beaten.
The first question I was asked on my visit to Les Arcs, was why the British regularly summarise the new village just as ‘Intrawest’ or even ‘Disney-like’ - whether they have been there or not? Good question. That element exists, but in a positive way. Forget the marketing and what do you have? - A base that is a great place for families and those seeking an active time in comfortable surroundings, with a twist of traditional. And arguably it accesses some of the area’s best terrain.
So, I prefer to go with the simple French view: Arc 1950 is just different, that’s all…

Essentials
My stay was arranged through Independent French specialist, Erna Low (0845 863 0525; www.ernalow.co.uk). One week’s rental of a six-person / two-bedroom apartment at the Radisson SAS Manoir Savoir, costs from £879 (per apartment) including a Eurotunnel crossing.
Erna Low also handles Arc 1950 property re-sales. They have an office in the village for enquiries or go to www.ernalowproperty.co.uk
For more on the resort go to the Arc 1950 Resort Club: www.arc1950.com
Spirit 1950 is the resort ski school; based next to the lift pass office. www.spirit1950.com

Related news items:
Snow far so good in Les Arcs (16/1/08)
Skies alight for Arcs opening (21/12/07)
1950s celebration for Arc village (16/10/07)
Arc 1950 scoops awards (12/05/06)

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