Where to Ski And Snowboard -

Budget alternatives in Eastern Europe

5th October 2009, by Chris Gill

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“ Heading towards the peak of Kasprowy Wierch we passed a modern chairlift, perhaps seen only two or three winters’ use …”

Kasprowy Wierch? It’s in Poland. Bulgaria isn’t the only eastern European country to receive investment in its ski areas, but the others have a way to go increase awareness. Still, if you want to ski on the cheap this winter, how about Poland, Slovakia or Slovenia – where a pound a pint is still common and a lift pass can cost as little as £10?

Eastern Europe has always been popular with budget-conscious Brits, and there are plenty of resorts that can offer an inexpensive winter holiday. Low-cost flights to cities such as Krakow, a wider choice of tour operator packages and improving resort facilities have helped.

We’d welcome reports if you have skied in any of these places, but for starters we’d like to thank WTSS reader, Richard Oliver for some input on Zakopane.
There’s skiing there, you know …

Zakopane – Poland

Poland may not have made it onto your skiing radar just yet, but with local exchange rates favourable to Brits, the Tatras make a considerably cheaper alternative to the Alps – or as an additional short break choice.

Zakopane is Poland’s winter capital, a traditional old mountain town at the foot of the Tatra Mountains. It’s also the highest resort in Poland – at 830m it’s like many Austrian resorts. To give you an idea of size, the town is about four times that of Banff; three million tourists visit each year, yet few of them are British skiers or boarders. But English is widely spoken and there are plenty of hotels, lively bars and restaurants for a bit of traditional Goral (highland folk) après-ski.

The skiing is a bit different too: 14 separate areas, reached by buses or taxis from the town. Counted together they offer a respectable amount of terrain; individually the slopes are limited, but they offer something for most levels. Staying in Zakopane gives you the choice to explore one or more of them. There are good cross-country trails too, and it’s worth noting that the lifts stay open late, so night skiing is common.

Unlike the Alps, lift passes are purchased separately each time you use the lifts. This has its advantages for beginners, who may not make many trips up and down the mountain. Prices are low: a return trip on the Kasprowy Wierch cable car is under £10 and ten rides would have cost you £16 last season.

The pick of the slopes

Kasprowy Wierch is the biggest and most challenging area, with black and red slopes either side of two valleys. There are also several marked ski routes shown on the piste map; off-piste though is officially banned A modern, two-stage jumbo cable car whisks you to the top at 1985m, and there are a couple of chairlifts to serve the upper runs.

By contrast, Szymoszkowa is a good family ski area, with a fast six-pack and decent snowmaking facilities. You can stay at the base too. There are a couple of red runs and gentle blues lower down. Beginners could also try Nosal, which has four good nursery slopes, or Harenda. Both still involve old draglifts, but they have gentle slopes.

There are other areas further afield worth exploring too. Bialka Tatrzanska is a developing area about half an hour from Zakopane. There is something for all levels, including a new black run, new fast chair and family activities such as tubing.

Getting there

There is a good choice of flights from the UK to Krakow. Ryanair, easyJet, Jet2.com and BA all fly there. A private bus transfer from the city to Zakopane costs about £4, one-way, and takes about two hours.

Renting equipment

There are places to hire skis and snowboards in the town. We’re told that outdoor retailers such as High Mountain www.sfpl.pl/shop are worth a try.

Links

www.discoverzakopane.com
www.zakopane-life.com

Map/lift photographs: Richard Oliver

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• slovakia
• bulgaria
• eastern europe
• poland
• kasprowy wierch

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