Where to Ski And Snowboard -

St-Gervais: between two greats

20th December 2011, by Chris Gill

Le Bettex, above St-Gervais but on the slopes [W King]

Imagine an ebony sky, moonlit above perfectly groomed and wooded pistes just outside your hotel room. Outside all is silent, the twinkling lights of town far below in the valley. It’s early February, but remarkably warm and there has been little fresh snow for a month; but what lies there is perfectly preserved and perfectly skiable. All this just an hour’s transfer from the airport, overlooked by western Europe’s highest mountain, Mont Blanc. And it greeted my arrival in St-Gervais-Les-Bains, or more precisely: Le Bettex – a small base on the hillside above the resort and a handy place to start your ski day.

St-Gervais-Les-Bains has attracted tourists since the early 1800’s yet this established spa town, with its shared slopes with Megève and an old railway up to Les Houches, remains relatively unexplored as a ski resort. It sits between ski rivals Chamonix and Megève, but has not attracted the same level of tour operator presence as its great neighbours. While Megève is effortlessly chic and charming, St-Gervais is a busy French working town with handsome old houses and shops, in the same river valley as Les Contamines.

A gondola from the edge of town goes up to mid-mountain at Le Bettex; from there, a choice of lifts takes you towards Megève, or south-eastwards to the tiny village of St-Nicolas-de-Veroce. The slopes are not high, so the weather somewhat more critical on a short break. But the grassy terrain holds snow cover well. And prices on the St-Gervais side are cheaper than in Megève, so it makes a good value base for exploring the area.

Skiing there

Part of the Evasion Mont Blanc ski area, the resort is definitely not short of good skiing on its doorstep. St-Gervais is flanked on both sides by broadly intermediate terrain linked to Megève on one side and accessing Les Houches by train on the other (separate lift pass). In good conditions, a red run goes back to town from Le Bettex, but most people download on the gondola. Like Megève, broad blue and red runs peel off from the ridges towards St Nicolas-de-Veroce, with a delightfully scenic red that skirts the top of the ridge. And there ample gentle greens for those tentative first cruises. Mont d’Arbois usually has the best snow, with good treelined runs down to La Princesse. Mont Joly, the high point, has steeper gradients and off-piste routes towards Les Contamines. Local guides can show you the best spots; try the Compagnie des Guides.

Getting there

St-Gervais-Les-Bains is a railway town, with a central station on the main Paris-Chamonix line. Geneva airport is an easy hour’s drive along the motorway, making the resort one of the better ones for a short break or touring holiday. Les Contamines, Megève, La Clusaz and Chamonix are all close by for visits.

Staying there

At this altitude it is worth considering staying up the mountain at Le Bettex (1380m), with its slope-side hotels and restaurants. The three-star hotel Arbois-Bettex (450 93 1222) is popular with families, has a pool and is a short stride from the nursery slope, ski school, rental shop and lifts. A daily bell calls you to ski school! It’s a little isolated at night without a car, but there are taxis to/from town. We stayed here in 2011 and highly recommend the place. In town the newish Féline Blanche is a hip, boutique place to try; its rooms are all furnished in black and white. Or there is a choice of two- and three-star hotels. Peak Retreats features the Monte Bianco, as well as a choice of apartment holidays.

Dining there

Leisurely lunches gazing at the scenery are the norm here, with a good choice from gourmet to large self-service places. But a real treat is the tiny Sous Les Freddy’s (699 49 1770), near the Arbois chair and with a splendid view. This old cowshed does not look like your usual mountain restaurant as you approach, but step inside and you have a traditional, pretty wooden hut. Owners Jeanine and Olivier will serve up a set rustic feast of meats, cheeses, salad and homemade desserts; followed by lashings of warm tea (in a decorative pot) or gnolé (apple brandy schnapps). And prices are satisfyingly low for the area.

Above Les Communailles, O’ Communailles has new owners and a wide menu. Beside the draglift, this welcoming place can accommodate larger numbers on a sunny terrace or inside. Menus are inventive and varied; we tucked into venison stew and blueberry tarte. Or try the huge portions at the hotel Arbois-Bettex, with its slope-side terrace. Later on, Chalet Remy at Le Bettex oozes French traditional charm, with creaky flooring, wooden beams and candle-lit bar. Less spoken English adds to the experience. The focus is very much on hearty Alpine staples, such as raclette, fondue and tartiflette; but Confit de canard and Entrecôte grillée are popular alternatives.

Freddy’s hut with fab view to Mt Blanc

Après-skiing there

Bettex is very quiet at night, and rather isolated. There are bars in town, but St-Gervais is not the place for a raucous nightlife or dancing on the tables. The hip and classy Pur bar (450 18 6276) is a recent addition, with its low lighting and fashionable seating. Come here for sophisticated cocktails and upmarket nibbles – no, not crisps but exotic canapés such as tomato and strawberry with a basil juice presented in a small glass. Or linger over a gourmet meal at the Sérac, with dishes combining a traditional and Mediterranean flavour.

Off the slopes there

The main attraction is the thermal spa centre (www.thermes-st-gervais.com), recently refurbished and extended to include an outdoor poor (Onsen) and a series of relaxation rooms. Drop by for an hour or two to unwind after a day on the slopes. Various treatments are available from soothing Indian head massages to invigorating water jets and spa waters heated to a balmy 37 degrees, as well as therapeutic sessions for skin ailments. Prices start at 30 euros per session. Perhaps ride the historic rack and pinion railway up the slopes of Les Houches for lunch.

More information:

Wendy’s trip was arranged by Duodecim PR, staying in the hotel Arbois-Bettex, in Le Bettex St-Gervais-Les-Bains. Double rooms start at 220 euros per night, based on two sharing and half-board.

New outdoor pools at the thermal spa centre

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