We’re staying in Arc 1600 in March - I’ve been there, and to La Plagne before, and I wonder if anyone can tell me if you think it’s worth the trouble of going across on the Vanoise Express for a day? It will be my partner’s first time in either resort and it would be nice to show him both places if feasible, but we’re both getting on a bit in years, and neither of us are brilliant skiers although we can tackle most slopes if we have to! I know we’re staying a good distance from Peisey by skis, and arrive at the far end of Belle Plagne at the other side - would we be able to get across to Aime or Champagny for example, and back again in a day?
I’d also like a bit of guidance on grocery shopping from the Les Arcs experts please: we’re arriving by train, and wonder if it’s feasible to do a couple of large shopping trips to Bourg using the funicular - I’ve looked on the map and it looks as though Lidl is fairly near the station. Any advice would be gratefully received.

Linden

To get from Arc 1600 to the Vanoise express you need 2 lifts: take the Cachette up and stick to Belvedere all the way across the resort to the Grizzley lift then follow the signs to La Plagne to the Vanoise express. The traverse past Charmettoger can be difficult to follow, but basically keep left at every opportunity even it it means some poling. You then end up on the road between Arc1800 and Vallandry. There are alternatives: for example to avoid the queue at Cachette, take the shuttle bus to the Jardin Alpin lift in 1800 and start from there when it opens (as most people from Plan Devin appear to do).

As to whether it is worth it I cannot really say. Over the last 40 or so days I have skied in Les Arcs I have been across twice. This year we even got as far as the Vanoise express and considered for a good 5 minutes coughing up the 27 euros each for the privilege. In the end we had a fantastic afternoon under the Varet telecabine; the best afternoon of the holiday. You should be able to get to Champagny and back in a day, if it is open that side of the mountain. IIRC the last lift from Vallandry is about 17:15 from Feb onwards, but you may have to get the bus back from 1800. Though I have done this many times the bus stop is hard to find. Go downhill from the Transarcs station to the road and follow it inside the cavernous delivery point/bus station. The shuttle stop is on the left as you look in.

Of course it is possible to do a couple large shopping trips using the funicular. The last one back is 20:00, but check the times. Lidl is the nearest grocery shop to the funicular stop, but its range is little better than the Spar in the village. It is, however, a 20 minute walk to my favourite store in Bourg - the Intermarche. The Super U has an even greater range and is IMHO the place to go for good seafood, but I cannot face the queues at the checkout. BTW, the little spar in 1600 is quite good, but they will have little if any prepacked meat instead rely on a butchery counter. The butcher speaks no English and I no French, we both find by attempts to describe meat funny (Think how you mime shoulder of lamb?). Now he always shakes my hand when I come in.

Remember that the Savoie bans the issue of free plastic bags at the checkout (should the UK follow suite?) so take a good shopping bag with you.

Have a good trip and let us know how you get on.

John

Wendy,

While standing around trying to make our minds up whether to go to La Plagne or not, I noticed that the lift from Les Arcs to La Plagne had about half a dozen people on it, whereas the one from La Plagne had about 50.

The view from the lift into the valley may justify the price by itself.

John

Thanks for the very helpful replies John and Wendy, I think we’ll have to make the effort to go across just because we can. Luckily as we’re going overnight Eurostar we have eight days so it’ll be worth it for one of them. Very useful info on the supermarkets too - we thought rather than loads of bags, we’ll take one of the empty wheeled cases for the shopping!

Good idea about re-designating a wheeled case as a shopping trolley. Before we had the sense to leave a few proper shopping bags in Les Arcs we used boot bags for the same purpose.  Just watch out in case they have snow in Bourg when you visit.  It is not unknown.

Incidentally, the equipment shops are slightly cheaper in Bourg during the height of the season than in Arc 1600. So if you need a new pair of gloves jump on the funicular. The shop up by Lidl is very cheap for ski clothing. IIRC my wife managed to buy a new jacket, trousers and gloves (do not ask why) for about 45 euro.

John

Thanks for that one John, I may feel some new skigear coming on!

I’d recommend you get the Paradiski Decouverte lift pass - that gives you a day in La Plagne - as it only costs a few euro extra over the Arcs pass.

It’s easy to find the lifts you need to take to get over to the main la Plagne bowl. From the top of Montchavin/Les Coches there are two routes, the less-travelled which requires descending to the mid-station in front of you, rather than taking a direct route to La Plagne, is preferable as you get a pretty good run down and come out at the top in a nicer spot to enter La Plagne. Either route leads to a nice place for morning coffee overlooking the huge La Plagne bowl.

It can take a long time to get to Plagne Centre so don’t bother. Head down to the telecabine that goes up to Roche de Mio and a lovely terrace for lunch. There are two easy very long routes down, one turning left and via the top of Champagny-en-Vanoise, through a lovely big mountain landscape of boulders, and with a great view of Courchevel, and the other turning right and taking a long blue through a tunnel back to near the top of Montchavin/Les Coches. By that time if you are slow skiers as you say, you will have to head back towards Montchavin Les Coches, with time to enjoy a few runs between the trees in that old sector before taking the Vanoise Express back to Plan Peisey.

Don’t be late back, because there are no buses from Peisey Vallandry to any of the Arcs and you have to get the Peisey 6 pack up to reach Arc 1800 along Foret (a very gentle long blue run through the woods). At worst, you can walk a mile or so to Arc 1800 through the woods on any easy footpath, but the lifts you need run fairly late so it shouldn’t be an issue unless you are delayed in La Plagne.

Thanks Matthew, I’ve printed out your suggested route and will take it along with me.

We’re just back from Les Arcs (I’ve posted a review here) and spent one-and-a-half of our six days in La Plagne. Given the price difference of only 40 euros, we went for full Paradiski area passes.

We did Arc 1800 to Champagny and back in a day without too much trouble, although it was a long one. Worth it overall, I think - some lovely runs above Montchavin and down into Bellecote, and down towards Champagny from the top of the Roche de Mio gondola. Which is, I’m sure, the longest gondola I’ve ever been on!

It’s a great ski area, easily comparable to the Three Valleys for variety and better than the Espace Killy in my opinion.

Good review.

I am glad you liked Les Arcs.

Malgovert is a particular favourite of ours. You can keep going in the trees for some distance before cutting back to the Mount Blanc route. The “near piste” routes between Golf and Vagere pistes are very popular, but still excellent after a dump. There used to be a black piste down that way (in case you wondered why there are piste basher anchor points and no piste below). The black part was in reality only the section directly below the Col du frette chair lift.

I hope you took care on that valley below parallel to the Comborciere run. There are some avalanche prone slopes directly above it (which is why I suspect that there is no piste there). Three people were killed in the Combe du Lanche on New Years day so it pays to be cautious off piste.

John

john - 17 February 2010 11:35 AM

I hope you took care on that valley below parallel to the Comborciere run. There are some avalanche prone slopes directly above it (which is why I suspect that there is no piste there). Three people were killed in the Combe du Lanche on New Years day so it pays to be cautious off piste.

We were very careful - even I, an inexperienced off-pister, could see that the slopes on the far side of the valley were a trifle dodgy. But we had two very experienced off-piste skiers with us, and kept to the opposite side of the valley (nearest the Comborciere run). The last, steep bit through the trees down to the lift was hilarious (better on a snowboard, I’m told) and involved a lot of sideslipping. Must learn how to jump-turn…

Loved the review AJR - I last went to Les Arcs years ago when many of the runs were way beyond my capability. I can’t wait to get back there in March now I’m ready for it! As we’re travelling by night Eurostar, we’re thinking of trying La Rosiere and Ste Foy on the Saturdays, leaving our luggage at the station for the day. Any thoughts people?

Thanks very much for the review, AJR. We’ll study this whole thread carefully!

Chris

Just got back today from Les Arcs having travelled overnight on the Eurostar service. A couple of pointers to anyone travelling there by train that aren’t made clear at the station or the resort, or anywhere on the tourist office website. First of all, it’s not necessary to walk over the footbridge to the funicular, even though there are huge signs pointing that way. It’s a backbreaker carrying luggage, skis and boots up and down all those stairs - it’s loads easier to walk out of the station, turn immediately right and follow the road round - it leads straight to the funicular, a flat walk and no stairs. Easier still, but onSaturdays only, there’s a bus that shuttles back and forth between the station and the funicular - almost a secret unless you happen to see it - again you have to come out of the station and turn right back on yourself (so facing the funicular direction), the bus waits there at the end rather than where all the other resort coaches line up.

There’s also an unpublicised left luggage place at the laundry in 1600 - again not mentioned anywhere but useful to know if you’re using the night Eurostar on Saturday.

Another thing that seems to be fairly secret is the lift pass exchange with other resorts. The website just says reduced price at various resorts if you have a Les Arcs/Paradiski pass. We paid 23.50 euro to ski La Rosiere for one day of our holiday, and had a nice surprise when we got the bus to Val d’Isere for another day, as the Espace Killy pass was free!

Maybe most of you know about this already, but I didn’t so thought it worth a mention.

Linden,

I had not realised the laundry (does it still develop photographs as well) acted as a left luggage office. A very useful tip that.

The walk to the funicular depends very much on if you are in the front or back of the train. If you are in the rear then the steps are the best option. If you are in the front then the road is gentler. I never knew of the shuttle bus so another very useful tip.

Two years ago there was a free shuttle bus from BsM to St. Foy. Does this still run? I think La Rosiere is run by a different lift company than the rest of the Tarrentaise which could explain its more expensive pass sharing options.

How did the shopping expeditions down to Bourg go?

And of course was the trip to La Plagne worth it?

My wife was in Les Arcs at the end of the week and said the conditions were good. They had 25 cm of fresh snow this morning, but the freeze -  thaw of the previous week meant that many runs were shut due to the high avalanche risk (powder snow atop hoar frost). How did you find the conditions.

We are heading out Thursday night.

John

Hi to all,

Sorry I am late to the thread, can’t remember the last time i had the chance to get online,

Glad you all enjoyed Les Arcs , I’ve finally managed to get a weeks holiday sorted and am off to sample the delights as it were next Thursday ......if anyone can sneak a last minute ski trip in i can thoroughly reccommend the last week of the season for Paradiski ( last skiable day is the 24th April).....it’s almost like having your own private ski resort.

With the fantastic conditions across the alps this year it has proved to be another great season for the white stuff…...and my money is on another great season for 2010/2011.

For all the new converts to Les Arcs , do you think you will be back next season, or pick another resort…......did you find enough suprises to keep you coming back?  and would you reccommend it to your friends and other skiers/boarders.

To all Mountain lovers ,best wishes

Jon.