29th August 2008 by Geoff Turner 

Klosters conjures up royalty and glitz but the reality is somewhat different. The village is split into two, one being Platz, the other Dorf. Both have a varied selection of hotels but offers cheaper accommodation in the outskirts particularly around Dorf. The centre of town is situated in Platz and offers all that you need for a great skiing holiday from ski school, great restaurants, hotels and of course the station, where everyone including the SCGB meets. In typically Swiss fashion, the trains from landquart, Davos and Scuol meet and connect with the local PTT bus services as well as the famous Gotchnergrat cable to access the tremendous Parsenn ski area. The inclusive Rego pass covers most of the transport in and around Klosters and as far as Davos so when the weather is poor just get on a train and enjoy! It really is one of the best journeys you could ever make. Negative comments are made about the 5 separate areas covered by the Rego, which include Jakobshorn, Pischa and Rinerhorn in Davos and Parsenn and Madrisa accessed from Klosters. Whilst access to them is time consuming skiers in Klosters will find enough to ski in Parsenn and Madrisa in an average fortnight. Jakobshorn now offers a predominately boarding mountain whist Pischa is now designated a ‘free-rider’ zone! Rinerhorn, which is limited in comparison to Parsenn is enjoyable but is too far away in time, due to poor connections in Davos, unless you really want to get up early.

The Schwendi mountain restaurants are not cheap but do offer good value as the portions are huge. Goulasch soup is a great option and is full of meat, not fat, and will fill most if not all. Failing that the ubiquitous rosti certainly will. The skiing on Madrisa, owned by the village of Saas just down the valley, is very easy on the Klosters side and offers superb learning facilities for all as well as great facilities and playing areas for kids. Early intermediates too will also gain confidence here on the long undulating terrain, and being south facing is a wonderful place to be! For the intermediate going off to the right at the top of the unfortunately long T bars brings into play the Madrisa area that offers superb skiing both back to the main areas via a new chair lift installed last year or a black back to the Madrisa cable car. These runs although not extensive are great fun and are a favourite of Prince Charles. It also enables friends and family the opportunity of skiing in the same area, meeting for lunch and coffee whilst meeting the differing standards of skiing ability. Parsenn is absolute magic with the longest runs in Europe advertised back from Weissfluejoch to Kublis. However, last year proved a disappointment. Firstly the runs from Schifer to Saas and Kublis were left unpisted and were listed as unmarked. This stopped the SCGB being able to take visitors down this most famous route, apart from the advanced off-pisters, which really does not suit them either. Further the Rhb (local railway company) withdrew the ski train that ran between the normal services from Davos Platz to Kublis, ending the service at Klosters Platz. This had a knock-on effect for all the stations from Klosters Dorf to Kublis and has affected the ski business in Kublis. Swiss tourist offices, please note we want Kublis back on the map now! The runs in and around Parsenn offer superb skiing for all comers and have great restaurants although my favourite is the Schwendi on the run 46 back to Klosters - simply the best goulasch on the mountain. Black level skiers will enjoy the runs at Weisfluejoch, the fast red down past the rebuilt funicular, and the steep black back into Davos ... sheer heaven.

Off-pisteurs are well catered for both in Davos and Klosters with the latter offering a high level tour into Gargellen, Austria, which the SCGB used to lead on a regular basis although now with a local guide.

Sir Arthur Conan Doyle was here enjoying ski running in 1903 and Prince Charles and family together with other European royalty enjoy it here and who am I to argue with that.
This is skiing how it used to be and long may it continue.