Summary

Quick access from Zürich airport and abundant lodgings make Engelberg great for short breaks (for which we find the towny nature of the resort is worth putting up with). And Titlis is a compelling mountain, particularly for experts.

THE RESORT

The resort was named after the 12th-century Benedictine monastery (Engelberg means the mountain of the angel) that dominates the town as you look down from the lifts.
Village charm The place is more of a town than a village. Its grand Victorian hotels have been joined by chalet-style buildings, concrete blocks and new apartment buildings right next to the gondola. There is one traffic-free cobbled street in the old part.
Convenience It’s a free shuttle-bus, sometimes over-busy, or longish walks to the lifts from most hotels.
Scenery There’s lots of visual drama from the high, glacial slopes.

THE MOUNTAINS

The mainly treeless, shady slopes of Titlis rise almost 2000m above the town. The separate slopes of Brunni are sunnier and gently wooded.
Slopes The pistes in the main area are limited and fragmented by the glaciers and rugged terrain. There are two main sectors: Titlis-Stand and Jochpass. A newish eight-seat gondola goes to Trübsee and on to Stand. An old funicular goes to Gerschnialp and a cable car goes from Gerschnialp to Trübsee. From there, there’s a choice of the new gondola or an old cable car up to Stand. Then there’s a further cable car (which rotates 360° on the way) to the summit of Klein Titlis. From Trübsee, you can also head for Jochpass via a two-way chairlift to Alpstübli. At Jochpass the top is served by a fast six-pack. The much smaller Brunni area is served by a cable car on the other side of town.
Fast lifts The newish gondola plus high-capacity cable cars provide the main access.
Queues The newish gondola’s increased capacity should have reduced the often big queues which formed at village level at weekends and in peak season; reports please. The old Engstlenalp double chair below Jochpass can have queues. Pistes can also get busy.
Terrain parks There is a kicker and airbag where you can practise tricks. See www.titlis.ch/en/activities/winter-activities/air2bag
Snow reliability The high, north-facing slopes of Titlis and Jochpass keep their snow well and have a long season. Piste grooming is very good.
Experts There is lots of superb off-piste. The classic Laub run is 1000m vertical down a hugely wide, consistently steep face with great views of town. We enjoyed even more the less popular 2000m vertical Galtiberg run from the top, which ends among streams and trees, with a bus back to town – a guide is essential. The off-piste from the top of the Jochpass area to Engstlenalp has been recommended and the terrain at the top of Titlis looks great but is not without danger. There are few black pistes; the itinerary from Titlis to Stand is steep and often mogulled.
Intermediates Most runs are steep reds, and there are few easy cruises. The Jochpass area is often quieter than Titlis, with enjoyable blue and red runs, including lovely long ones down to the valley station (especially nice in the mornings when they are quiet).
Beginners There’s a good isolated beginner area at Gerschnialp, smaller areas at Trübsee and Untertrübsee. You have to use lifts to and from these slopes (limited passes are available) and there are few longer easy runs to progress to – all far from ideal. Some beginners go to Brunni.
Snowboarding The beginner area is served by draglifts, so it’s not ideal. But there is excellent freeriding if you hire a guide. Beware of the flat start to the runs down from Jochpass.
Cross-country One reporter’s friend was very impressed with the 35km trails and loops (some at altitude).
Families There’s plenty on offer for children. See www.engelberg.ch/en/winter/families

Blogs, features and news

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